Hokianga Harbour

Omapere and Opononi, the twin towns bordering Hokianga Harbour’s entrance, share a wealth of natural gifts. Most visitors here seem content to soak in the ambience of golden dunes, azul water, and green hillsides. But, the adrenalized set jumps at the chance to take the shuttle boat over to the dunes for some crazed dune-surfing. Either is sure to please.

Things around here are pretty quiet now, but it wasn’t always so. Visit the Omapere I-Site/Museum and view the two short videos starring “Opo”, the World-Famous people-friendly gay dolphin who captured the country’s heart the summer of 1956. Don’t miss these rare videos—the footage of the playful dolphin celebrating a carefree life in an uncomplicated era will tug at your heartstrings.

Here’s two walking options:

Arai Te Uru Signal Point. This is the area’s must-must see. Above Omapere take the Scenic Lookout road to the carpark and walk the short path out to the point. Magnificent sea, dunes, and harbour…mesmerizing waves criss-crossing the harbour bar.

For the venturesome, be sure to make the hour-long loop down and around the point at the water’s edge. Anytime except full high tide is OK, but low tide is way, way better. Go anti-clock down from the carpark at the “beach access” sign. Rounding the point, the rocks, channels, and pools create an exceptional labyrinth. Some tide pools are so deeply emerald and sun-warmed that you’ll probably find mermaids basking (c’mon girlfriends, you be the mermaids!) Continuing around to the south, at the first beach you’ll find a marked track back up.

Kuoto Boulders. These are a bunch of spherical boulders lining the bay shore (inland from Opononi), somewhat reminiscent of the South Island’s Moeraki boulders. At low-tide a 10-15 minute stroll will lead to the first of these oddities, plus you can continue another 30 minutes or so to find more and larger ones. These boulders aren’t as “wow” as Moeraki’s, but the quiet walk will fill you with serene solitude while the geology will pique your interest. Offshore is the sad island where Opo died. For boulders, from Opononi head north on SH12 for 4.5km then turn left on Kuoto Loop road. Go 3.5km then left on Waione and at the first curve head left and park. Walk to the water then to the right.