Karamea

Karamea might be the Last Best Place. The last place on the South Island with attractions worth seeing, but virtually no summertime tourists. Not that Karamea wants it this way…they want tourists, but have yet to figure out how to get them to take a 100km detour from the typical West Coast route. Like moths to a campervan ceiling light the tourists hurry south to see Punakaiki, Hokitika, and the glaciers…leaving Karamea all by its lonesome. Karamea is what the Catlins once was…a nice beautiful place without a mob of branded tourist campervans. The road to Karamea is a long out ‘n’ back, similar to the road to Milford Sound. But Milford, obviously, is Milford, and Karamea isn’t. But whereas Milford is overrun with hoopla and hustle, Karamea isn’t. Karamea is one of the few visitworthy South Island spots without a stack of commercial brochures, without a legion of $$ “adventures,” without a dependable petrol supply, and without “No Overnight Staying” signs plastered on every road-end. Someday it’ll probably have these, but not yet.

If you are on a hurry-hurry South Island tour, then skip Karamea. But if you have some time and enjoy getting “off-the-path”, then plan a low-key couple of days in Karamea—you’ll be delighted. Visit the arches, visit Heaphy’s beaches, maybe Fenian’s caves or the longer Oparara track, and definitely walk the Charming Creek either on the way in or out of the area. Make a beach fire. Get clubs at the VisCtr and play golf. Take photos of the Oparara “root beer” river contrasting with the yellow rocks and green ferns. And here’s a fun idea…bring something to float on—inner tube or raft or something and walk up the Oparara River 3.5 km from the bridge and float back down to the sea. Call it your “root beer float”. Study the Topo map and maybe try floating under the arches…a float from one arch to the other...can it be done?? Karamea might have some real adventure up its sleeve—give it a look!

Oparara/ Fenian Track. (I haven’t done it, but am excited to do it next time I’m there.) There is now a new-ish track from Moria Gate Arch to the Fenian Track. It’s 14km one-way, thus a good day-walk. The trick is that the carparks are 20km apart. If you could park at the Fenian trailhead and then get a shuttle ride up to Oparara, that’d be the best plan. There’s no operating shuttle service (yet), due to the paucity of tourists who actually visit Karamea…but maybe someday. For now, ask at the visitor centre…and maybe you could catch a morning ride up with the Honeycomb Cave guide or simply pay a local for a lift. Near the end of the trek—10km in with 4km to go, you’ll cross Fenian Creek and come to the Caves loop. Head 5 more minutes up to the second “Caves” sign, and if you’ve got a bit of extra energy (and a headlamp) head 6 minutes over to Miner’s Cave for a neat look at stalactites galore and a nice showing of glow worms. From there the Fenian track is an easy 4km descent.

Kohaihai Beach/ Heaphy Track. 15km north of Karamea you’ll come to the literal “end of the road.” The Heaphy Great Walk begins/ends here at the nice beachside free DOC campground. This is the nicest beach area near Karamea. The Kohaihai River forms a huge tannin-stained swimming hole before it charges through a boulder garden to the sea. The beach stretches endlessly south while the Heaphy Track crosses a swingbridge and heads north into the bush. The Heaphy makes an excellent day walk for as far as you feel. There’s a mapboard at the campground. The Nikau loop and further to Scott’s Beach is a “Great” Heaphy day-walk sampler.