Once the "hellhole of the South Pacific" Russell is now the jewel of the Bay of Islands. Russell offers class to remedy its neighbor's crass. Russell has substance, history, and beauty. Russell has locals...Russell has Kiwis. The hills of Russell sigh each day when the weight of tourism is lifted by the last ferry departure. Driving to Russell, either the long way or via the ferry, is the best way to get around and explore...but even if you come over on the passenger ferry, there's still lots of places in this small town to walk to (bring a backpack and a picnic.)
Flagstaff Hill. Walk or drive up to this twin-hilled lookout (at 90m). From here you'll see all of Russell's hubbub and over the bay to Paihia. Tour buses will come to join the walk-from-Russell crowd. The sundial mosaic is prosaic! Stop and ponder a moment how the numbers on the dial are "backwards" compared to northern hemisphere. True that ..."clockwise" is the direction the sun's shadow moves on a northern sundial! Down under, the shadow moves west to east - "anti-clockwise".
Tapeka Point and Beach. This point is one of the Bay's best! A 5-minute track heads up the grassy slope under magnificent Pohutukawas (don't miss this if the Xmas blooms are out.) The pa point is divine...no buses nor ferry tourists, just islands bobbing in a sea of blue. Have a snack and look down at the zillion-dollar homes. Watch the myriad of boats. Roll in the long grass. Afterwards, head down to Tapeka beach for a mellow swim, or if the tide's out try to scurry around the point a bit.
Long Beach (Oneroa). The locals' beach - the walk over the hill dissuades most tourists. This long east-facing beach is eminently swimmable. The coves at either end - especially Donkey Bay to the north - are Naturist havens. Rumour has it that the cliff-top home above Donkey decreed upon giving the land to the QE2 trust that the beach would be clothing-optional. From town it's 1.5km on Oneroa or Long Beach roads.
Russell Forest. Nothing to Crowe about. The Kauris are only OK, the trig track ain't worth Jack. If you want a track over this way, do Whangamumu. For an excellent drive go check out Rawhiti.
