Devil by daylight, nectar by night! The Sylvia Flats small riverside hot pools, just a 100m walk from a roadside picnic stop on the Lewis Pass Hwy (SH7), would be wonderful…except they’re NOT! Some quirk of pure evil plagues these pools with the most awful swarm of sandflies EVER! Honestly, you’ve not seen a sandfly swarm until you’ve seen this one…stop and take a look, but BE WARNED!
But, that said, the “nectar by night” phrase is true. The sandflies go to bed after dark, leaving just you, the rush of the river, and the Southern Cross for a relaxing soak in the 40° waters. There are basically one or two volunteer-dug pools an arm’s length from the Lewis River. There are no restrictions on overnight parking…so come after dark, have a soak and then leave. Don’t camp here—it’s not worth it…these little reverse-vampires arise with the dawn to plague you anew before you can even put your billy to boil. Yikes! Sadly, there will be no enjoyable morning soak at Sylvia – the plague will be waiting once you step outside for a morning leak. You’ve been warned.
For a much better place to camp head north on SH7 for 10.5km to DOC’s Deer Valley free camp along the same Lewis River. There are nice riverside sites and a long-drop…and fire wood seems abundant for the fire pit that exists at each site. And, lo and behold, much fewer sandflies! Set up camp here, head to the pools after dark for a soak, and then come back for a sleep knowing that you “did” Lewis Pass the smart way.
For a bit of exercise, 2.7km east of Sylvia Flats is one end of the St James Walkway. The sandflies aren’t too bad here and for an easy walk you can go up the track 30 minutes to an old-time wire-only swingbridge across the creek.
