Here’s an author’s take on “different strokes for different folks.” Across Hawke’s Bay I see Napier glittering in the sunshine… a tourist and cruise ship mecca. The people are happy over there sipping espresso and surveying the art-deco-rations. After the gallery it’s off to the links for a quick 18 before a stop at the winery for a sip and chat about the crush. If there’s time how ’bout a hop on the tractor out to Kidnappers for a gannet or two before the dinner reservation. A day well-Deco’d.
Me though, what I like to find is a remote beach where I can strip off my clothes in the warm sunshine and frolic into the sea. I wander the beach collecting a handful of spirally Cat’s Eyes. Warm again, I amble over to the waterfall, climb the steps hewn into the rock and take a laughing leap into the deep plungepool. Refreshed, I stroll looking for paua shells and admiring the colored cliffs (then I pen something like this.) A day well-Frenzied.
Napier and its charms are easy to find. This beach/ waterfall venture is a bit trickier. Head north of Napier on SH2 for 30km or so. At a hilltop turn right on signed Aropaoanui road and then follow it 15km down, across stream and thru two gates to the road end. At mid-tide or lower, only on a falling tide, walk north for about 30 minutes to the next large cove— Waipapa. Morning-ish-noon sun lights the waterfall. Beware high tide if you dawdle, or you may have to wait out the tide change to make it back…damn. Bring food in case. You can also walk to this cove from the popular Waipatiki beach, but it adds an hour more and makes timing the tide trickier.


