The vast majority of Abel Tasman backpackers do the 3-day route from Marahau to Totaranui. The vast majority of day-walkers, shuttlewalkers, and day-kayakers swarm the Marahau section of the track because that’s where all the commercialism is based. This bit of the AT, the northern corner of the park towards Separation Point, sees far fewer footsteps, yet its beaches and bush are just as inviting as any on the more popular route. Here’s the deal: if you head south from Totaranui for a day walk you’ll probably see 100 people (folks either ending/beginning the 3- day track or day-walkers from Totaranui campground), head north and you’ll see maybe 20-30 people.
Walking the track for an hour to the north you’ll get thick jungle, great ridge-top vistas, and four different stretches of wonderful Abel Tasman orange-sand beach—great bang-for-the-buck! This walk is FAR superior to the too-busy AT day walk north from Marahau!!
WALK:Anapai Bay is first up after a 30-minute ascent/descent through a wondrous dense jungle. Anapai’s got neat rocky nooks at either end and a small campsite in its middle. North from Anapai you’ll pass a small unnamed cove and then ascend the headlands for 30 more minutes to Mutton Bay. From the track you’ll get postcard-perfect views of both Anapai and Mutton. Mutton Bay is a two-for-one beach with a rocky outcrop splitting the beach into two halves. A beach walk, then a swim to the other beach for another walk…is well-done Mutton! (hahaha.) From Mutton the AT continues about 20 minutes more to the Separation Point Lighthouse. The lighthouse isn’t too scenic, but there may be seals on the rocks and killer views of the entire Golden Bay and Spit. From Totaranui to the lighthouse is about 90-120 minutes one-way, so it makes for a long day hike, but it’s probably the best combo of scenery, beauty, and least crowding anywhere on the Abel!
